48 Hours in Tashkent: An Editor's Guide to the Capital

Tashkent is a city of contrasts that reward the curious: blue-tiled madrasas a short ride from brutalist landmarks, sprawling bazaars beside glossy new boulevards. Here is how I would spend two days showing a friend around my city.

Day one: the old city and the bazaar

Start early at Chorsu Bazaar, under its great turquoise dome. Come hungry: dried apricots, fresh non bread from the tandir, spices piled in bright pyramids. Next door, the Kukeldash Madrasa is one of the city’s oldest surviving buildings.

Continue to the Hazrat Imam complex, the spiritual heart of old Tashkent, where the library holds one of the oldest surviving Qur’an manuscripts in the world. Go in the late afternoon, when the light turns the stone gold.

For lunch there is only one answer: plov. Head to the Central Asian Plov Centre, where it is cooked in enormous cauldrons and best eaten before it sells out around midday.

Day two: metro, modernism and evening walks

Ride the Tashkent Metro as a sight in itself. Each station is a small museum: Kosmonavtlar with its cosmic blue medallions, Alisher Navoi with domed ceilings and ceramic panels. A single fare costs very little, so hop between a few.

Surface at Amir Timur Square and wander down to Sayilgoh Street, the pedestrian promenade locals call Broadway, full of painters and street snacks. End the day in the new Tashkent City Park as the fountains light up.

Tip: Tashkent is best in spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October), when days are warm and evenings are soft.

Before you go

Many nationalities can now visit Uzbekistan visa-free or with an e-visa; check the current rules for your passport before booking. Carry some cash for bazaars, and download Yandex Go for taxis.

Cover photo: Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent, by Adam Harangozó, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).

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